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losh1971

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Should sit behind the converter on the front side of the pump.
 

Glaze

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Okay I’ll have a look at that but any ideas of the trans fluid around the engine sump? Also I never removed the TC it’s still in place engaged onto the gearbox so is there a chance it could still leak?
 

losh1971

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I'm only speaking from experience, it could well be fine. I just paid a stack of coin to have my RM plate and sump gasket replaced along with a few other parts while they were there. The one seal I didn't tell them to do I suspect is weeping. It's the most tiniest of weeps but still annoying when you drop over $2k on repairs. I doubt this is your issue, but just thought I'd mention it if you still have the trans out, so you don't make the same mistake for a $30 seal and about 20mins labour.
 

Glaze

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I'm only speaking from experience, it could well be fine. I just paid a stack of coin to have my RM plate and sump gasket replaced along with a few other parts while they were there. The one seal I didn't tell them to do I suspect is weeping. It's the most tiniest of weeps but still annoying when you drop over $2k on repairs. I doubt this is your issue, but just thought I'd mention it if you still have the trans out, so you don't make the same mistake for a $30 seal and about 20mins labour.
Yeah I get you, I’m assuming I just slide converter out then replace the seal on the shaft then lock the converter back on?
 

Glaze

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Bit of an update guys, cars all done after multiple repairs during rear main seal (had to remove manifold to get top bellhousing bolt so ended up replacing all associated gaskets). The exhaust is 90% in not necessarily flush to the cat flanges but I decided to start it up today and instantly when car turns over the revs jump way too high and stay there as if my foot is planted on the pedal. I’ve attached a video for reference. I’m assuming the IAC is cactus? I doubt the exhaust not flush is causing a significant vaccum leak to raise the idle to the redline (that what it sounds like in the vid, for precaution I didn’t let it run long you can see the motor torque on the mounts which shows how high the revs kick on) Cheers

High revs on start up
 

Glaze

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Also cluster seems dead, kms are shown but no illumination of any lights, no needles move, needles don’t light up nothing. Could this and idle issue be ECU related? Car has not been started for few months and it’s a Calais thanks
 

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So I think the alternator is cooked… I did remove it as well as PS pump to give the front cover a good clean.. maybe some brake cleaner got into the connections (I only wiped the alt didn’t flog it with brake cleaner). I checked many fuses and some weren’t illuminating with test light, I checked voltage on battery while cranking and engine idling (or over revving in this case) and it was 9V. That could also explain why cluster isn’t working, the mode button and hazard button doesn’t work as well. I heard when alternators or the regulator fails on an LS1 they do odd things…. Also what colour should the brushes be on the alt because mine are pitch black
Cheers
 
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